- Price: A lot cheaper than braid, around $5-$15 a roll of 300m.
- Knot Tying: Easy to tie knots with
- Fluorocarbon: The flurocarbon version is near invisble in the water, which is perfect to use as trace for soft plastics.
- Stretch: The main difference between the two is the line sensitivity which mono lacks, meaning you be too late on a strike.
- Memory: The line gets curly coming off the reel and after undo-ing tangles, which makes it susceptible to “bird’s nests” (you’ll know what I am talking about when you encounter it!)
- Fraying: The lines fray a lot when you go up against rocks making future use of the line a lot weaker, which may cause you to lose line (and more importantly, the fish!) a lot quicker.
- Thickness: Generally thicker than braid, which means you fit less line on a reel, not ideal for when you hook up a runaway train!
- Castability: Able to cast long distances, even with light sinkers. Ideal for lure fishing.
- Memory: Little or no memory (depending on the brand), meaning the line won’t curl up. You will notice this with mono when you tie knots or get tangled.
- Sensitivity: Perfect for when you need to feel all bites or when your line goes over structure. Ideal for catching the finicky biters like bait fish.
- Strength: Very strong in comparison to mono, meaning the line diameter is smaller. If you choose a higher rated braid, eg. 20lb, you can use a squid jig in confidence that you can pull the jig through any snags.
- Price: The most obvious potential deal-breaker. Usually around twice as expensive as mono with half the length of line on the roll.
- Undoing knots: Not only are knots harder to tie, they are hard to undo as well. This means if you bird’s nest, you can lose a fair bit of ($$$) line from having to cut it each time.
- Sharp: Bit of a strange one; braid is quite hard to pull if you’re snagged good and it is quite sharp on the hands. Be ready to use some gloves if you get snagged with heavy braid!